Over 29 Years of Scouting in The Colony, Texas!

Expedition 804-C is underway the group is expected to return August 16th.

Crew departure photo 08/02/07.

See Base Camp Panoramic view below.

Troop 226 has received a Philmont High Adventure Expedition for two crews in 2007.  Expedition dates are August 4th through August 16th.

If everything on the training schedule takes place and you complete all of the Merit Badge requirements and complete the Philmont Trek, you will have earned:
• Hiking MB
• Backpacking MB
• 50 Miler Award
• The Arrowhead Award
• Duty to God Award
• The “We All Made It” plaque for each Crew

All adults going to Philmont and all Scouts going to Philmont and their parents must read all 6 pages of the 2007 HEALTH AND MEDICAL RECORD. You must have your physical completed and turned in  no later than the March 5th.

You should be completely outfitted for Philmont by March 30th.  Our 1st 2 night backpack hike will be Fri., Sat. and Sun., March 30th - April 1st.

Training outings

February 16th - 18th: Troop Campout – SR2 Yellow Wolf      Training:  10 mile day hike      20% bodyweight or 30 lb. backpack           (Hiking MB req. 5, 1st of 5 hikes)   March 17th - 21st: Spring Break Trip – Petit Jean State Park      Training: Hiking with day packs   30th - April 1st: Fri. evening to Sunday Afternoon       Training: 15 miles, 2 nights      Backpack loaded as if you were leaving for Philmont.      We will do a shakedown inspection.           (Backpacking MB req. 10, 1st of 3 hikes)   April 28th – All Day Saturday      Training: 20 mile endurance day hike with backpacks "Erwin Park".       20% bodyweight or 30 lb. backpack           (Hiking MB req. 6)      Bring money for CICI’S Pizza

May 11th – 13th: Troop Campout – Lake Texoma/Cross Timbers Trail      Training: 15 mile hike with backpacks and full gear.       2nd shake down overnighter to test equipment.            (Backpacking MB req. 10, 2nd of 3 hikes)   19th – All Day Saturday      Training: 20 mile endurance day hike with backpacks Erwin Park.      20% bodyweight or 30 lb. backpack           (Hiking MB req. 6 repeated or can be used for one of the 10 mile hikes in req. 5)      Bring money for CICI’S Pizza   June 2nd - 10 mile day hike , location: TBA      30% bodyweight or 50 lb. backpack           (Can be used for Hiking MB req. 5)   23rd - 10 mile day hike, location: TBA      30% bodyweight or 50 lb. backpack           (Can be used for Hiking MB req. 5)   July 14th - 10 mile day hike, location: TBA      30% bodyweight or 50 lb. backpack           (Can be used for Hiking MB req. 5)   28th - 10 mile day hike, location: TBA      30% bodyweight or 50 lb. backpack           (Can be used for Hiking MB req. 5)

Read 2007 Gear reviews from Backpacker Magazine.

These PDF files are large.

Backpacks

measure your torso

How to guarantee a perfect fit with your next backpack in 5 easy steps

1 Enlist a friend Unless you're a contortionist, you can't do this alone.

2 Roll the tape You'll need a soft tape measure that can follow the curve of your spine.

3 Tuck in your chin Tilt it toward your chest so the C7 vertebra at the base of your neck protrudes. This knob marks the top of your torso measurement.

4 Grab your love handles Then use your thumbs to feel for your iliac crests, a fancy term for the tops of your hipbones.  If you have ample flesh there, you may have to dig deep.  Draw an imaginary horizontal line across your back between your thumbs; where this line crosses your spine will be the bottom of your torso measurement.

5 Take the measure Have your friend drape the tape from C7 to the point on your spine.  Most adults have a torso length between 16 and 22 inches.

find the perfect pack

A field-tested guide to sizing, fitting, and buying your next backpack

1 Load it up An empty pack always feels good.  When shopping fill yours with at least 20 pounds; ropes and tents work well.  Complete steps 2, 3, and 4, then walk around the store to assess comfort.

2 Loosen up Release all the straps when you throw it on-load lifters, shoulder, hipbelt, and hipbelt stabilizers.

3 Shrug your shoulders Lift the pack until the belt is even with the top of your hips, then buckle it.  Tighten the shoulder straps and load lifters.  The bottom of the pack should snug into the small of your back.  The pack's weight should feel evenly distributed between your shoulders and hips, and the shoulder straps should hug your shoulders, with no visible gap at the top.

4 Check the torso length A general rule of thumb: The load-lifter straps, which run from the shoulder straps up to the top of the pack (usually just under the lid pocket) should rise at a 30- to 45- degree angle.  If they don't, try adjusting the pack's suspension.  If it doesn't adjust, move up or down a size.

5 Me on-trail adjustments Don't be afraid to experiment with straps on the trail, or make constant refinements throughout the day.  Small changes can release pressure when a sore spot crops up.

hoist a heavy load

Don't pull a muscle getting a pack on your back.  Here's how to do it safely if there's no help around.

1 Turn around Face the pack's back panel and shoulder harness, with one foot forward.

2 Make your knee a tripod Grab the top of the shoulder harness and hoist or sling the pack up onto your thigh.

3 Wiggle in Holding one shoulder strap, slide the free arm though that strap until it rests atop your shoulder.

4 Lean forward Reach down with your free hand and shove the pack bottom sideways (so it's vertical along your back), and put your other arm through its strap.  Buckle up and adjust as necessary.

Boots

get a good fit

Prevent blisters, sore arches, even chronic foot problems, in 6 easy steps.

1 Shop in the p.m. Try on boots in the evening, because feet swell during the day.

2 Measure your feet Do it every time you buy boots--your size can increase as you age.  A good bootfitter will measure both feet using a Brannock device.  If the sizes are different, go with the larger one.

3 Shop around Try on several models and brands, because almost every boot is built on a different last (the mold that determines a shoe's internal shape).  Note: Fit usually doesn't improve after break-in.  Wear will reduce stiffness and sometimes stretch a leather upper enough to yield slightly more toe width, but it generally does not eliminate problems that make the boots feel tight or loose.

4 Take a test drive Plan on spending at least 15 minutes in each pair you're considering.  Walk up and down an incline board and check that your heel stays stationary and your toes don't slam into the front.  If your foot moves more than a quarter-inch in any direction, if you feel pressure points any where, or if the boot's flex points at the ball and ankle don't conform to your foot, keep looking.

5 Wait for perfection You'll know it when you feel it: Your heel is cradled snugly, your midfoot and arch feel well supported, and your toes have wiggle room.

6 Add padding Aftermarket insoles can remedy a variety of foot problems by boosting arch support and lateral rigidity.  Try them if you suffer from end-of-day soreness, a narrow heel, or unusually high arches. They can also improve fit, especially if you have low-volume feet that tend to swim around in boots.

fix 6 common foot problems

These simple tricks can prevent typical maladies and keep your hike going.

1 Swollen feet Hot days and hard miles can make your feet blow up.  If loosening the laces doesn't bring enough relief, remove the insoles.  Tape over any prominent seams inside the boot to prevent rubbing, or tape your foot if a hot spot emerges.

2 Laces won't stay tied Slippery laces, especially those with Kevlar, can loosen easily.  Fix by crossing the laces twice instead of once at the boot top, then tying a double bow-tie knot.

3 Shin pain Long climbs in high, stiff boots will hammer your shins.  Secure the lower laces, leave the upper laces loose, or skip one or two eyelets at the top, to allow your ankle more freedom to flex naturally.

4 Toe bang Laces can loosen up over time, causing your feet to slip forward when going downhill.  At the start of a long decent, retie them tightly.  Remember to clip your toenails, too.

5 Cold feet Chilly mornings can numb your toes before breakfast is cooked.  To keep them warm until it's time to hike, tuck your boots inside your sleeping bag about 30 minutes before you plan to get up (use a stuff sack or plastic bag if they're wet).

6 Wet boots If your boots are thoroughly soaked, keep your feet dry (and warm) by pulling plastic bags over your socks before putting on your boots.

prevent blisters

5 field-tested techniques for eliminating the three causes of blisters; heat, moisture, and friction.

1 Grease up Reduce friction by applying antiperspirant, antifungal powder, or a skin lubricant such as Sportslick, Body Glide, or Hydropel before you hike.  The reapply every few hours on the trail.

2 Cool off Roll your socks down over the collars of your boots to create a "chimney effect," channeling heat up and out.

3 Keep them dry If your feet perspire heavily, remove your boots and socks during rest breaks (even short ones) so they can air out.

4 Rotate socks Change socks at lunch -- or whenever they get soaked--and dry sweaty ones with our body heat by tucking them inside a jacket, shirt, or pants pocket.

5 Act early As soon as you feel a hot spot forming, wrap or cover it with duct tape or moleskin (use tincture of benzoin with the latter to improve stickiness).

Tents

pitch a taut tent

Keep your tent grounded and dry with these 5 setup tips.

1 Use good stakes Aluminum and titanium tent pegs may bend, but they won't snap as easily as plastic stakes, which also tend to have dull tips.  Go with thin wire or round pegs for hard ground, and Y or T stakes elsewhere.  Tip: Paint the tops hunter orange, and you'll never lose them in the dirt again.

2 Tighten the corners When pitching your tent, plant the first stake, then move to the opposite corner.  Pull the floor tight and plant the next stake.  Repeat, tensioning as you go.  Push in stakes at a 45-degree angle away from the tent for top holding power.

3 Rig guylines Attach 6 feet of cord to each of the guy loops on the rainfly; try PMI's glow-in-the-dark Niteline Utility Cord.  Stake the lines and tighten them using the tensioners provided, Nite Ize's Figure 9 Rope Tighteners ($3), or a tautline hitch knot.

4 Check your fly Many fabrics stretch when wet.  You may have to retighten tensioners to keep the fly taut.

5 Use a deadman On snow, sand, and rock, tie 6 feet of cord to each stake loop.  At the other end, attach a stuff sack (for snow) or tie a loop (for snow, sand, and rock).  Fill the sack with snow and bury at least a foot deep; it will freeze in place.  In the loop, place a heavy rock or log; on snow, you can use a pole or ice axe.

pack a tent with TLC

Extend your shelter's life with these trail-tested tips.

1 Stuff the body Folding your tent along the same creases every trip will eventually cause cracks in the waterproof coatings.  Prevent this by mashing the fly and then the canopy into the stuff sack.  You'll also wind up with a less bulky sack to fit in your pack.  Tip: Before stuffing, shake off dirt and water, and neatly loop guylines so they don't tangle.

2 Pamper the poles Never shake or snap pole sections into place; this can cause splinter, chips, even bend the connecting flanges.  In the morning, gently collapse your poles from the center outward to lessen stretch on the shock cord.  Pack the poles separately right against the framesheet in our pack's main compartment or under compression straps on the outside.  Tip: Save a few ounces by ditching the pole stuffsack.

3 Segregate the stakes Avoid puncturing your tent by packing stakes separately in an outside pocket.

Sleeping Bags

size it right

It's a sleeping bag, not shrink wrap.  Here's how to make sure your next sack fits perfectly.

1 Try before you buy Crawl into as many bags as you can, wearing appropriate layers, to get an overall idea of the way each brand fits.

2 Integrate the pad If a bag has a pad sleeve (like Big Agnes's line and some Sierra Designs models), rig it that way in the store, because a pad will reduce the bag's interior volume.

3 Check the closures Zip it up, down, and up again.  If a zipper snags now, it will in the field.  Cinch down the hood and draft collar.  Check for a comfortable fit, a snug seal around your head, no scratchy hook-and-loop rubbing against your cheek, and ease of exit.

4 Roll around If you're a cold sleeper or cold-weather camper, opt for a fit on the snug side.  But if you're a thrasher or side sleeper, make sure you're able to comfortably rotate your body.

wash your sleeping bag

Follow these tips to keep your investment lofting high.

1 Read the label or seek advice on the company's website.  If those directions contradict any of our tips below, follow the manufacturer's guidelines.

2 Batten down the hatches Close all zippers and fasteners, then turn the bag inside out, so body oils on the interior will come off.

3 Use the right soap For down, go with a cleaning product that won't strip essential oils from the feathers, such as Nikwax Down Wash or ReviveX Down Cleaner.  For synthetics, try Granger's Extreme Cleaner Plus (which also works on down).

4 Wash it Hand-wash in a tub, or use a front-loader; the agitator in a top-loader can tear baffles.  Always opt for the gentle cycle with cold weather.  After one complete cycle, run an extra rinse or two to remove the soap.

5 Remove carefully Support the bag from underneath to keep waterlogged insulation from ripping out stitches.  Hang it lengthwise on a laundry line until most of the water weight is gone.

6 Dry it Place the damp bag in a large commercial dryer.  Dry on low heat, and check frequently.  Remove down bags every 30 minutes to de-clump the feathers.  Back home, leave your bag unstuffed for a few days.

patch a sleeping pad

Does your inflatable have a mystery leak?  Here's the step-by-step.

To find the hole

1 Clean the valve Sand or grit can prevent a tight lock, and may even be the leak's culprit.

2 Inflate the pad, folding it over to increase air pressure.

3 Submerge the pad in clean water Any lake, stream, or tub will do.

4 Watch and listen A tiny line of bubbles will lead to the leak.  Mark it with a pen, then check the valve.

To patch the leak

1 Deflate the pad, then clean and dry it.

2 For a pinhole, apply a drop of adhesive from the pad's repair kit.

3 For a larger hole, center a round fabric patch over the hole, and trace around it to mark the size of the glue spot.

4 Spread glue to a slightly wider area than the marked circle.

5 Press the patch into places and let cure.